Winter Adventures in Northern Arizona

Famous for its picturesque desert landscape and unique rock formations, northern Arizona is the ideal place to experience the great outdoors. The Grand Canyon State is also well known for its intense summer heat; hence we decided to do a road trip in winter instead. We hike a lot as a family, and hiking is more pleasant when there are fewer people and the daytime temperature is not soaring above 90º F.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument

Our first stop was Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Chinle. Situated within the Navajo Reservation, this lesser-known canyon has sheltered the indigenous people for nearly 5,000 years, including the Archaic people, the Basketmakers, the Pueblo, the Hopi, and the Navajo. It is now home to a modern-day Navajo Indian community that still lives and farms the rich soils in the valley, thus, access to the canyon floor is restricted to guided tours only.

We visited the national monument on Christmas Day and had almost the whole place to ourselves. The six overlooks that were open along the South Rim Drive provided stunning views of the sheer red cliffs, lush valley floor, and ancient Puebloans ruins. Our favorite was Spider Rock, a sandstone spire that defies gravity and rises more than 700 feet from the canyon floor.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

Farther north on the Arizona–Utah border lies the towering sandstone buttes of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Standing at 400–1,000 feet above the valley floor, these rock formations are the result of erosion by water, wind, and ice over millions of years. The Navajo families have lived in the valley for generations, and some of them are still staying in traditional hogans without running water and electricity.

Little was known about this dramatic landscape until director John Ford used it as the setting for his 1939 film Stagecoach. Monument Valley is now an iconic symbol of the American West and has appeared in many Hollywood movies, television programs, and commercials. Contrary to the popular belief, Monument Valley is not considered a national park as it is under the jurisdiction of the Navajo Nation.

We left our Jayco trailer at the campground outside of the park (RVs are not allowed on the loop drive in the monument) and with a map in hand, we did a self-guided drive along the 17-mile scenic loop. Although a four-wheel drive is not necessary, the dirt and gravel road may not be suitable for vehicles with low clearance. The bumpy drive took us around the main sights, including the popular Mittens and Merrick Butte, John Ford Point, and Artist’s Point. It was so amazing to see these massive monoliths up close that we found ourselves stopping every few hundred yards to marvel at the breathtaking scenery. Guided tours are also available, from 1 1/2-hour jaunts to overnighters.

By the time we left around noon, there was a long queue of cars waiting to enter the park. We headed for Forrest Gump Point, which was the spot where Tom Hanks stopped his cross-country run in the 1994 film from which the place derives its name. With majestic Monument Valley as the backdrop, this location on US Highway 163 in Utah is a favorite for many photographers. It was difficult for us to get a good picture due to the high traffic, but we still had fun trying to reenact the running scene.

There was nothing more satisfying than ending our day with a delicious dinner that included Navajo frybread. We had savory Indian tacos topped with beans, meat, chopped lettuce, tomatoes, shredded cheese, and sour cream, as well as the sweet version served with honey and powdered sugar. Crispy on the outside yet soft and chewy on the inside, the Navajo frybread was so delightful that we ordered extra helpings.

Grand Canyon National Park South Rim

Just a three-hour drive away lies Grand Canyon National Park, which is one of the most visited national parks in the United States. At 277 miles long and more than a mile deep, the Grand Canyon is recognized as a natural wonder of the world for its overwhelming size and colorful landscape. We entered the national park from the east entrance and drove along the Desert View Drive, stopping at overlooks to admire the incredible vistas.

Grandview Point is the southernmost lookout point along the South Rim and offers panoramic views of the Grand Canyon and the Colorado River to the east. We took a short hike down the Grandview Trail and were enthralled by the endless views of layered rocks and steep gorges. With few others on the trail, we were able to fully enjoy the peace and tranquility below the rim. That said, the upper portions of the trail were steep and icy, and we had to constantly remind our kids to slow down.

The following day, we descended into the canyon’s depths via the Bright Angel Trail, which was an easier hike compared to the Grandview Trail. It was snowing during our hike, and being surrounded by snow-dusted cliffs was nothing short of magical. We felt like we were in a fairy-tale scene, and more so when we encountered a mule train transporting supplies down to the lodge at the bottom of the canyon.

Winter hiking was definitely the highlight of our stay in the Grand Canyon. While the views from the rim were spectacular, hiking down into the canyon allowed us to better appreciate its natural beauty and immense size. It gave us more perspective than just looking at the canyon from the top. The snow that transformed the Grand Canyon from a desert park into a winter wonderland was literally the icing on the cake.

Sedona

We continued our journey south and arrived at the city of Sedona, also nicknamed “Red Rock Country.” As the name suggests, Sedona is renowned for its red-rock formations, in addition to its energy vortexes that are said to promote spiritual wellness. We spent a lovely afternoon browsing through the quaint little shops at Tlaquepaque Arts & Shopping Village before making our way to one of Sedona’s most revered landmarks—Chapel of the Holy Cross.

Perched high upon Sedona’s red-rock buttes, the most prominent characteristic of this Roman Catholic church is its 90-foot cross, which seems to rise up from between the boulders. The interior of the church is simple and unadorned; rather, the focus is on the huge stained-glass windows that overlook the Verde Valley. It was wonderful to see this contemporary church architecture blend in so seamlessly with the surrounding natural environment.

Sedona is full of world-class hiking opportunities, and we had a hard time trying to choose a trail. Our children loved the Soldier Pass Trail, as they could explore several natural features such as the Devil’s Kitchen (an active sinkhole), the Seven Sacred Pools (a series of pools carved out of sandstone), and, best of all, the Soldier Pass Cave.

With a little help, both of our kids were able to scramble up the pile of rocks leading to the narrow cave. In fact, they surprised us further by climbing to the top of the cliffs, where we enjoyed a bird’s-eye view of the Red Rock-Secret Mountain Wilderness area.

Petrified Forest National Park

Our last destination, Petrified Forest National Park in northeastern Arizona, is named for its large deposits of petrified wood, which is the fossilized remnant of ancient trees. Most of the attractions are located near or along the 28-mile main park road, so it is possible to drive through the park in an hour, but I recommend hiking a few trails for a more immersive experience.

With its rolling badland hills of bluish bentonite clay, I found the Blue Mesa Trail to be the best hike in the park. The otherworldly landscape on this loop trail made me feel like I was being transported to another planet. Our kids, on the other hand, preferred the Crystal Forest Trail due to the beautiful quartz crystals found in the petrified logs. As tempting as it may be, it is illegal to remove petrified wood from the national park, and many believe that bad luck would befall those who do so.

By traveling during the colder months, we avoided the busy season and saw Northern Arizona in a different, but no less gorgeous, fashion.

Travel Tips

• There’s limited parking at Sedona’s most frequented trailheads so arrive early. The Sedona Shuttle goes to the most popular hiking trails.
• RVs are prohibited on Valley Road in Monument Valley, but park rangers may permit entry to smaller Class B and Class C motorhomes
• Over-the-shoe traction devices and hiking poles are highly recommended for winter hiking to help with footing on icy trails.
• Three RV parking lots are at the Grand Canyon South Rim. Lot 1: Visitor Center; Lot B: Market Plaza; Lot D: Backcountry Information Center.

Where to Stay

• Canyon de Chelly National Monument: Cottonwood Campground
• Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park: Goulding’s RV & Campgrounds (in Utah, close to the Arizona-Utah border)
• Grand Canyon National Park South Rim: Trailer Village RV Park
• Sedona: Rancho Sedona RV Park
• Petrified Forest National Park: OK RV Park