Traveling in Alaska’s Playground
The Famed Kenai Peninsula Delivers Outdoor Adventure, Stunning Scenery and Wildlife, and World-Class Fishing Opportunities
Image Caption: Photo Credit: Steven Schremp/Sea Stacks, Kenai Fjords National Park
Top Photo Credit: Steven Schremp/Sea Stacks, Kenai Fjords National Park
With its blend of towering mountains, blue-carved glaciers, and incredible wildlife, Alaska has always been a bucket-list destination for my family. Big and beautiful, there are so many things we wanted to see and do in the Last Frontier. Since we only had 11 days for this road trip, that meant we had to be very selective in our itinerary. Luckily for us, the long daylight hours in summer gave us ample time for exploration.
After months of research, we decided to focus our vacation on the Kenai Peninsula, a fishing and recreation destination south of Anchorage. It is bordered by Cook Inlet to the west and Prince William Sound to the east. Also known as “Alaska’s Playground,” the Kenai is famous for its array of outdoor adventures and abundant wildlife. It is accessed by the Seward and Sterling highways, both of which are designated as scenic byways.
Photo Credit: Jeanette Teng
Turnagain Arm
From Anchorage, we began our journey on the Seward Highway along the Turnagain Arm and were greeted by spectacular views of the mountainous coastline with jagged cliffs on our left. The beaches were unlike any we had seen, with sprawling mudflats that stretched for miles. Our kids were tempted to venture out onto the mudflats, but we’d read that the glacial silt acts like quicksand, and one could get trapped by the incoming tides.
There are several pullouts for motorists to safely pull over. We timed our stop at Beluga Point to observe a rare natural phenomenon called bore tide. It occurs when outgoing water in the Turnagain Arm inlet converges with tidal waves coming in from the ocean, producing a wave up to 10 feet high. Surfers from near and far come to Alaska to ride this legendary bore tide, the only one in the world set against a dramatic backdrop of rugged mountain peaks.
Photo Credit: Jeanette Teng
Portage Valley
After driving 50 miles south of Anchorage, we reached the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, a home for orphaned or injured Alaskan animals. It is a great place to see animals up close—moose, musk oxen, reindeer, bears, wolves, and porcupines. AWCC maintains more than 200 acres of spacious animal enclosures modeled after their natural habitats. We took our time to walk and drive the entire 1.5-mile loop and were particularly impressed with the elevated boardwalk that allows visitors to observe bears from a safe distance.
Just a stone’s throw away from the conservation center is the Portage Glacier Road, which provides access to the Portage Glacier area of the Chugach National Forest. We took an easy hike on the Byron Glacier Trail, which parallels a cascading white-water glacier creek. The trail eventually opens up to a picture-postcard view, with the stunning Byron Glacier and snowfield in front of us. Coming from Texas, it was an incredible experience to walk out onto the snowfield and peer down into the depth of a deep-blue crevasse.
Photo Credit: Jeanette Teng
Seward
Continuing our drive south on Seward Highway, we arrived at the picturesque town of Seward. Situated on Resurrection Bay on the southeast coast of the Kenai Peninsula, Seward is one of Alaska’s oldest communities and the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park.
Exit Glacier is the only area of the national park that is accessible by car. As we hiked the Glacier Overlook Trail, we saw markers along the trail that indicate by year the location of the glacier’s toe at that point in time. It was shocking to see how rapidly the glacier has receded over the years, which is a visible reminder of the effects of climate change. The trail offers a panoramic view of Exit Glacier’s descent from the Harding Icefield to the outwash plain below, and it is sad to think that this vista may not be around long enough for future generations to enjoy.
A large part of the Kenai Fjords is only accessible by water, including the fjords ecosystem and tidewater glaciers. We took a six-hour boat tour and were blessed with wonderful sightings of bald eagles, puffins, sea otters, harbor seals, Steller sea lions, Dall’s porpoises, and humpback whales. When our ship slowed to a stop in front of Aialik Glacier, we even got to witness the thunderous calving of the tidewater glacier. While we stood on the deck in awe, watching the hunks of ice crash into the bay below, the harbor seals resting on the icebergs seemed oblivious.
“Flightseeing” was another quintessential Alaskan experience on our to-do list. The helicopter ride was pricey but absolutely worth the splurge. As we soared past sheer granite walls and over the rivers of ice, it really put into perspective the immensity of these iconic wonders and how minuscule we are in comparison.
Photo Credit: Jeanette Teng
Cooper Landing
We made our way toward the river town of Cooper Landing via the Sterling Highway. Adjacent to the Kenai-Russian rivers confluence, Cooper Landing is best known for its sport fishing during the salmon-run season.
There are many places to observe spawning salmon in Kenai Peninsula, but the Russian River Falls was our unanimous favorite. I could stand on the deck for hours, cheering the wild salmon on as they attempted to leap the waterfall. We are no anglers but still had fun watching the sport fishermen cast for sockeye salmon along the Russian River.
Our very kind camp neighbor gave my husband a crash course on fly fishing and even offered us his catch of the day. I had never tasted a fish this fresh, and the grilled salmon literally melted in my mouth.
The area has an extensive trail system that ranges from leisurely to strenuous. We hiked the short but steep Bear Mountain Trail, and there were ample raspberries, high-bush cranberries, and blueberries for picking along the way. Halfway up the mountain, we eyed a patch of flattened vegetation that looked like a bear had recently bedded there.
We made noises as we climbed, just in case the bear was nearby foraging for his afternoon snack. At the summit, we were rewarded with breathtaking views of Skilak Lake with its surrounding mountains and freshly picked berries for our well-deserved break.
Photo Credit: Niaz Uddin/Travel Alaska
Homer
Located at the terminus of Sterling Highway and the southernmost town on the state’s highway system, Homer is often described as “Where the land ends and the sea begins.” It’s a charming little town with an eclectic mix of artists, fishermen, and outdoor lovers.
No visit to Homer is complete without a trip down the Spit, which is a narrow finger of land jutting out into Kachemak Bay. It is the town’s center of activity and provides access to beaches, a boat harbor, motels, campgrounds, restaurants, charter services, galleries, and a variety of small shops. We spent an afternoon strolling along the 4.5-mile-long Spit, indulging in deep-fried halibut and chips, and checking out the boats docked at the harbor. After days of hiking, it was nice to relax by the beach and watch the fishing boats come in with their daily catch.
Our road trip in Kenai Peninsula was nothing short of epic. In all of my travels, I have not been in a place as exceptionally gorgeous as Alaska. My family has created memories that will last us a lifetime, and we plan to return someday to experience the aurora borealis in winter.
Where to Stay
Kenai Peninsula offers plenty of camping opportunities along its road system, with both public and private campgrounds catering to the needs of RVers. Conditions may vary, so research before you go. Some private campgrounds in the area include:
