Forever Wild — Traveling in the Catskills

For any RV Adventure to be a success, it should have activities for everyone in the family to enjoy. For us, good campgrounds and impressive scenery are a must, as are swimming, fishing, boating, bicycling, and hiking opportunities. It is also advantageous to have quaint villages with shops to visit and restaurants to sample the local fare when a break from the campground is desired. Some might even want to play a round of golf. The Great Western Catskills region in New York State has it all—even a public campground for campers with horses. The two best seasons for an RV adventure here are the summer, with its lush greenery, and the fall, when the mountains are aflame with color.

Catskill Park is a state park encompassing more than 700,000 acres of public and private land in four counties: Delaware, Greene, Sullivan, and Ulster. More than 286,000 acres are public land with rivers and lakes to enjoy and wilderness areas for hiking and backpacking. The Great Western Catskills is officially located in Delaware County, which covers 938,900 acres of land and has a population of approximately 44,000 people. More than 76% of the land is forested, while the rest encompasses farmland, hamlets, and villages. However, many visitors consider the western sections of contiguous counties part of the region as well. Doing so creates additional camping and recreational choices.

Mighty Waters and Wildlife

With lakes, rivers, and reservoirs covering more than 25 square miles of the Great Western Catskills, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, rafting, and swimming opportunities are plentiful. There is nothing my wife Linda and I like more than kayaking or swimming in a free-flowing river or a pristine mountain lake. One of the northeast’s most famous waterways, the Delaware River, is born in the Catskills at the confluence of the West Branch and East Branch of the Delaware River in the village of Hancock. From there, the Delaware River serpentines more than 300 miles south, bordering New York and Pennsylvania, and then it forms the Pennsylvania/New Jersey border for the entire length of New Jersey until it flows into the Delaware Bay.

The 73.4 miles of river running south from Hancock to Sparrow Bush is designated the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River, which is administrated and protected by the National Park Service. Route 97, which parallels this section of the river, has been declared a scenic byway by New York State, and there are bald eagle observation points along the way. If you are lucky, you will spot one of these magnificent birds soaring through the blue heavens. Over the years, I have seen them sailing over the river and flying above Big Pond in the mountains of the Pepacton Reservoir near Roscoe. What a majestic sight flying eagles are! The Catskills are also home to black bears, coyotes, beavers, bobcats, hawks, and deer, among others.

The crystal-clear water of the Upper Delaware Scenic and Recreational River has both flat water and rapids. One time after several days of rain, Linda and I took a tandem kayak trip. The sun warmed us and danced on the water as the blue sky hugged the mountains. After several miles of flat water, the distant roar of rapids sent a tantalizing thrill through us. As we battled the wild, watery chaos, waves swamped our kayak and tossed us about like an angry sea, and adrenaline shot through our veins like raging floodwater through a gorge. We laughed in fear and excitement, and although the kayak was repeatedly swamped at each new set of rapids, we never overturned. It was one of the most enjoyable days of our lives.

Liveries also offer opportunities for river trips on the smaller and more placid East Branch and West Branch of the Delaware River, as well as for New York City’s two Catskills reservoirs: Cannonsville and Pepacton. Unfortunately, the creation of these reservoirs displaced local residents and drowned farmland, villages, and homesteads.

The reservoirs are open to the public for fishing and nonmotorized boating. Permits and environmental protocols are required. These magnificent reservoirs hug the wild mountainous shorelines giving you a taste of Mother Nature’s sublime tranquility. Just below the dam of the Pepacton Reservoir is the impressive 174-foot-long Downsville Covered Bridge. Erected in 1854, it spans the East Branch of the Delaware River and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

A Medley of Sights and Activities

The Catskills region has miles of hiking trails. One suitable for the entire family is the Shavertown Trail. The trailhead is located .1 mile from the Shavertown Bridge parking area. The 3.3-mile round-trip trail passes a mountain pond through mixed forest and has two spectacular views of the Pepacton Reservoir and surrounding forests.

Not far from the reservoirs is the quaint hamlet of Roscoe, with a population of only 520. Due to its two renowned fly-fishing hot spots—Beaverkill River and Willowemoc Creek—Roscoe is known as “Trout Town USA.” Besides the fly-fishing, Roscoe has several eateries, including the “World Famous” Roscoe Diner and the log-cabin-themed Courtyard Bar. They both serve delicious food, and the Courtyard’s outdoor dining area overlooks a lush field and the mountains.

Roscoe is also home to the Prohibition Distillery, the Roscoe Beer Company, and the Roscoe O&W Railway Museum. Besides artifacts of that bygone era, the museum has several historic railway cars on display.

Nearby the Beaverkill Campground & Day Use Area is home to the 98-foot-long Beaverkill Covered Bridge. Erected in 1865, Beaverkill is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and was completely renovated in 2017. The river’s deep pool of crystal-clear water beneath the bridge is a favorite spot for swimmers and fishermen.

Backcountry Roads, Villages, Vistas, and Farms

Besides the rivers, lakes, and hiking trails, the Catskills have hundreds of miles of backcountry roads through farmland and forest for bicycling and/or auto touring. However, if you prefer the exclusivity of an unmechanized bike route, the 26-mile Catskill Scenic Trail, a former railbed, offers a hardpacked surface for biking, hiking, and horseback riding. It travels alongside the East Branch and West Branch of the Delaware River and State Routes 10, 23, and 30. The trail passes six small communities, giving opportunities to sample local offerings along the way.

With six independent bookstores, Hobart Book Village is one of the most unique communities in the region. Each bookstore appeals to a different niche of readers. In addition to the bookstores, other eclectic shops line Main Street, and The Coffee Pot Café serves tasty breakfast and lunch choices.

A few miles north on the rail trail is the picturesque Village of Stamford and Mount Utsayantha. Although Mount Utsayantha is not part of the rail trail, you can take a vigorous mountain bike climb (or hike) to the summit on the dirt road. A drive up in a vehicle is also enjoyable, with several scenic overlooks.

The fire tower provides a 360-degree view of the farmland and mountains of the Catskills as they roll toward the horizon like a mighty inland sea. For additional summit views, two ski mountain resorts—Plattekill Mountain in Roxbury and Belleayre Mountain in Highmount—are open on weekends for lift rides to the summit and have mountain bike trails as well.

Working family farms abound in the Catskills, and many have their own stores or roadside stands that sell produce directly to visitors and local restaurants. For a taste of the Wild West, visit Cody Shane Acres, a bison ranch in Walton. Its bison herd ranges from 30–50 members, and the free-range grass-and-grain-fed bison is one of the healthiest and tastiest meats there is. Steaks, burgers, hotdogs, and other bison items are available.

To us, nothing says “camping” more than a bison burger or steak flame broiled over a wood fire. If you call before a visit, owners Don and Lynn Tweedie will make sure you are able to see the herd. Wandering among the bison while in the safety of Don’s truck was quite a thrill for us.

As humorist P.G. Wodehouse said, “To find a man’s true character, play golf with him.” Golfing on the beautiful courses of the Catskills with the rolling hills and spectacular mountain scenery will not only display your partner’s character but lift your spirits as well. Twelve golf courses grace the region.

If your family is anything like mine, once you visit the Great Western Catskills and explore all that the region has to offer, you will be happy to return year after year.

Did You Know?

Roughly 8,000 black bears roam New York State, with approximately 1,500–2,000 living in the Catskills region. The average adult male weighs about 300 pounds, while the female averages 170 pounds. Black bears are generally shy and avoid humans.

The Pepacton Reservoir is 17 miles long and covers 5,763 acres; the CannonsvilleReservoir is 12 miles long and covers 4,703 acres. Both are stocked annually with brown trout and smallmouth bass and offer hours of peaceful paddling.

Built on the (now preserved) concert grounds of the famous 1969 Woodstock Music and Art Festival, Bethel Woods Center for the Arts features a monument, a museum of the 1960s and ’70s, a restaurant, and a concert venue.