Tech Q&A: Time to Winterize?

Trailer Tires

Q: We have a 2015 Keystone Outback fifth-wheel trailer. Could you give me a straight answer on the best tires for a fifth-wheel or travel trailer? The tire sidewall says 80 PSI cold. Traveling, won’t they heat up enough to have a blowout (which has happened several times with me)? What pressure is safe for an RV not overloaded? Harold Brown, Lawrenceville, Georgia

A: Your questions require me to provide some background information to offer a useful answer. Tire sidewalls like this typically display the maximum inflation pressure (such as 80 PSI you noted), which is to be used when the tire is loaded to its maximum rated weight.

That weight should also be displayed on the sidewall along with the pressure. Maximum allowable tire pressure is based on the tire’s construction and ply rating or load rating. Light-truck tires have “LT” included with the tire size, and Special Trailer tires have “ST” included with the size. Trailer ST tires typically have somewhat higher weight load ratings for a given size than do LT tires of the same size. However, trailer tires are load rated for 65 mph, and the rating goes down if the vehicle exceeds that speed (10% lower at 75 mph).

A tire that’s inflated to its manufacturer maximum psi will not blow out due to overheating when in use. The tire manufacturers plan on that modest increase in psi when designing the tires. Underinflation and tire overloading are greater risks to tire durability.

The majority of trailer tires are made in China, and the majority of tire complaints I get from readers are about Chinese tires. I believe that many of the failures are due to poor quality. However, others are due to age deterioration and improper inflation. Having said all that, only a few trailer tires are made in the USA, such as Goodyear Endurance. I recommend using quality tires, properly inflated for the load.

I suggest replacing tires when they become weather cracked and/or when they exceed about seven years after the date of manufacture. Tires should also be covered during storage. Tires can lose pressure while being towed due to a puncture, and then overheat and come apart as a “blowout” failure. Therefore, I recommend using a tire-pressure monitoring system (TPMS).

In order to determine what pressure to use, you need to weigh the RV on a truck scale and then look up the individual wheel weights on the tire manufacturer’s Load-Inflation table for the specific tire model and size. These can be found at tire dealers and online on the manufacturer’s website.

Auxiliary Fuel Tank

Q: We have a 2014 Ford F-350 pickup. I’m looking for an auxiliary fuel tank that could be installed in the space ahead of the wheel hump inside the pickup box. I’m planning to tow a trailer and RV full time, and I want to maximize the space available for transporting gear under the bed topper. I pull a 27-foot trailer and want to be able to reduce fuel stops and fill up the tanks when I get a price break. Can you help me locate the tank? Mike Mellen, via email

A: There are a number of suppliers, but Transfer Flow is arguably the most well-known and offers a wide variety of quality, proven products for this purpose. These are only available for diesel.

Storing Firearms

Q: Are there RV modifications for storing firearms? @PR0FESSI0N

A: It’s estimated that about 40% of RVers carry firearms in the United States. It is the responsibility of any gun owner to keep their firearms safe and secure. This calls for safe gun storage to prevent a child, irresponsible adult, or even an intruder from accessing a gun.

I recommend installing a hidden gun safe that is securely attached to the RV. Inside closets and under beds, sofas or dinettes are good places to conceal a safe. There are many available gun safe options that offer a secure place to store weapons, while still offering quick access for emergency situations.

Here are a few suggestions: Fort Knox FTK-PB Pistol Box Handgun Safe, Liberty HDX-250 Smart Vault Biometric Safe, and for rifles and shotguns, V-Line Quick Access Keyless Shotgun Safe. You can find these at gun stores and online. I also urge people to research the gun laws of the states (or provinces) they plan to visit and to obtain safety training.

Weight-Distributing Hitch

Q: We have a 2010 Chevy 1500 truck with a towing package, which includes a weight-distributing hitch. I bought a used Coachmen 24-foot Catalina trailer that came with a weight-distributing hitch system (a very big heavy insert with bars that go from the insert to the trailer tongue and connect with chains). I also have an anti-sway bar. Do I need the bars and chain weight distributing system if my truck already has a weight distributing hitch? Charles Johnson, Plainwell, Michigan

A: Weight distributing (WD) hitches are used on trailers in higher weight classes to help prevent the rear axle from being overloaded and/or the vehicle from riding excessively low at the back. A weight-distribution hitch transfers a significant portion of the tongue weight across the trailer tongue and onto the tow vehicle’s front axle in sort of an arch fashion.

In most cases, a factory-installed towing package will include a hitch platform, extra engine and transmission cooling, a trailer towing wiring harness that may include a brake control, and a strong frame for mounting the hitch. The hitch may be designed for weight distribution, but without the spring bars and chains (or equivalent) it won’t be able to transfer tongue weight forward to the front wheels.

You didn’t say which brand of WD hitch was included with your truck, but I suspect you’re referring to the hitch receiver that’s on the truck from the factory. I would be seriously surprised to have a new truck include a complete WD hitch setup unless the owner specifically ordered it as an option. If you had the full setup it would include the spring bars and hangers, which means you wouldn’t need the ones that came with the trailer. In either case, you’ll definitely need the spring bars to make the setup work.

Freshwater Tank Overflows

Q: While hooked up to city water, I woke up to water overflowing from the intake connection of my freshwater holding tank. This has never happened to me before. It seems that the city water supply was finding its way to my freshwater tank. Why? Marciano, via email

A: When city water puts freshwater into the onboard freshwater tank, it means one of two things: either the check valve in the outlet side of the onboard electric water pump has failed, or the quick-fill valve (if equipped) is open or faulty. If your RV has a quick-fill valve (they allow the freshwater tank to be filled while connected to city water pressure), it may have stuck open.

Quite often it is the backflow preventer check valve, located at or near the water outlet on the water pump, which has failed. Most pumps have a built-in valve, but some pumps have the check valve as an external component. You don’t have to replace the whole pump. Rather, you can add an aftermarket in-line check valve to the pump’s outlet fitting and leave the defective valve in the pump if it cannot readily be removed. A new in-line check valve will prevent city water pressure from back-filling the tank.

Some RVs also have a valve that regulates where the water from the city water inlet is routed. Turn the valve one way and it routes the water to the RV systems, and the other way might fill the fresh tank. Check around to see if you have any such valves improperly adjusted in addition to the above procedures.

Atwood Electric Leveling Jacks

Q: I have Atwood electric leveling jacks on my 2008 Tiffin Phaeton diesel pusher. If I cannot keep them going by repair as needed via machine shops, is there a replacement for each jack or do I have to replace the entire system? With individual jacks or an entire system, what brand do you recommend? Mike Cook, via email

A: I checked today and found an Atwood leg available on eBay along with some controllers. There are also videos online showing how to repair them. If you switch to a different type, you’ll need to switch everything. Hydraulic leveling systems are the most common leveling method for motorhomes. HWH is the most popular hydraulic leveling system. You might find it most cost-effective to purchase a good, complete used system from an RV salvage yard and have it installed.

At What Cost?

Q: What is the cost of equipping an RV with solar and wind power? Randy @HandyRandy05

A: Costs vary greatly, depending on what you want to power, what kind of RV you have and where you use it. If you usually stay in campgrounds that have hookups, you may simply want solar as a way to keep the batteries alive when the rig is stored. This only requires minimal expense with a 5– 20-watt panel. Running the air conditioning would require a huge solar array to charge the equally huge battery bank.

Solar panels are popular with RVers who like to boondock and are willing to forego air conditioning and use fans or run a swamp cooler (in dry climates only) in warm weather. By installing LED lighting and minimizing electric use, it is possible to run mostly from rooftop solar and batteries, with occasional generator usage. However, plan to spend several thousand dollars, including panels, controllers, batteries, wiring, and installation labor.

Wind power is generally limited by the lack of dependable winds, except in certain areas such as along coasts where steady prevailing winds are common. The size and weight of the wind generators make them less desirable than solar because you typically have to store them along with the blades and tripods in storage compartments, which are limited on RVs, rather than just permanently mount them on the roof like solar panels.

Water Pump Cycles

Q: I have a 2019 Thor Windsport. When dry camping with the water pump on, every once in a while I hear it run for a very short time. Do I have a leak, or is the pump not holding? Bob Rightmire, via email

A: If all of the faucets and other water-consuming devices such as icemakers are off, yet the pump cycles on and off fairly often, your system probably has a small leak. Your pump is coming on to maintain pressure in the system. While it might not be a large leak, any sort of leak in the system will allow pressure to drop.

If you think this is the case, you’ll need to check your entire system for the leak, including the pump connections, filters, and piping. You can pinch off one line at a time and see if the problem stops. That will isolate the section where the leak is. Another solution is to add an accumulator tank, which won’t fix the leakage but would extend the time between pump cycles. This could be a satisfactory solution if your pump cycles infrequently.

RV Service Checklists

Q: Do you have a checklist of things you check when an RV comes in for servicing? Lori Helke, @lorilovesadv

A: Not all RVs require the same inspections and services. Motorhomes require considerably more items due to their powertrain than do trailers, and their list varies by brand and model. Inspections and maintenance should be performed on slideout room mechanisms and seals on both trailers and motorhomes. Trailer maintenance services mainly consist of checking the tires and wheels, wheel bearings, and brakes, suspension, and lights. Shackles should be carefully inspected for wear and lubricated if possible. I recommend adding grease fittings at the shackles if none are there.

Of course, if you have a trailer then you will also need to maintain and service your tow vehicle according to its factory service schedule. Tow vehicles and motorhome chassis come from the factory with maintenance schedules, which can also usually be found online or obtained from a dealer’s parts department or manufacturer. Towing is considered heavy-duty usage or extreme service and typically calls for service approximately twice as often as non-towing usage. This is particularly true with large, heavy trailers. Dinghy towing with a motorhome should also be followed up with more frequent chassis services.

The coach should come with a list of items for which the manufacturer recommends periodic maintenance. A good RV repair center, like your local Camping World, will also assist you with information on what items need what sort of service and when. These lists are often found on the manufacturer’s website. If you can’t find them, here’s a shortlist of some basic items, listed below:

• Check tires and tire pressure, rotate tires (as recommended by tire manufacturer)
• Check all lights, internal and external.
• Clean roof and check condition of sealants at seams and around air conditioners, vents, etc.
• Check for signs of water leaks or water damage to ceilings
• Check the rubber seals, fit and locks on doors, windows, and storage compartments
• Operate all slides and awnings and inspect for wear or damage. Lube slides per manufacturer’s instructions.
• Test all appliances and electrical items
• Inspect shore power cable, fresh-water hose, sewer hose, lube slide valves
• Check battery water levels and clean battery terminals
• Check Genset oil, change oil and filter if needed, run the generator (if equipped) with a load
• Check gas appliances for operation, check propane  lines for leaks with soap solution or leak detector
• Test smoke alarm and carbon monoxide/propane detector and replace batteries as needed
• Clean air conditioner filters
• Inspect the slide-out for proper seal
• Sanitize the freshwater system
• Wax and buff the exterior finish

Circuit Overload

Q: We have a 2020 Forest River Rockwood Mini Lite travel trailer. The RV has 30-amp electrical service. It has a fireplace, and if the fireplace is on and I turn on the microwave, the fireplace turns off. I have asked Forest River but did not get an answer. My husband thinks it doesn’t have enough power to run both at the same time. What do you think? Mary Nadolski, Carbondale, Illinois

A: Look for the labels on both appliances, which should state their power consumption in watts. If they only show amps, multiply amps times 120 (volts) and you will get watts. 30-amp service is rated to provide 3,600 watts at 120 volts. The electric fireplace may be around 1,800 watts and the microwave may be around 1,500.

It’s likely that you are at or over the limit, particularly because other items in the RV draw current at the same time. I also suggest that you continue trying to reach Forest River for their comment. If you seriously need to operate both devices at once you may need to upgrade to a 50-amp system, which is an expensive and complicated process when done by a shop with a qualified electrician.

Swaying Ford F-53 Chassis

Q: We have a 2006 Fleetwood Bounder with a replacement Safe-T-Plus installed, but it has not helped the steering at all. Are there any known problems on a Ford F-53 chassis that may cause the RV’s continuing swaying? Thomas Hamilton, St Augustine, Florida

A: The Safe-T-Plus is a good quality product, but it’s basically a steering stabilizer (similar to a shock absorber) attached to the steering linkage. A known common problem with the Ford F-53 chassis is tail sway or fishtailing (yawing), which is caused in part by a fairly loose (side-to-side) rear suspension design.

I suggest you first try temporarily inflating your rear tires to maximum rated pressure as marked on the sidewalls. Test drive to see if this reduces side-to-side swaying on the road. Soft sidewalls allow swaying motion. If this doesn’t help, consider installing an aftermarket Rear Track Bar such as is sold by Blue Ox or Henderson’s Line-Up. These products securely position the rear axle and greatly reduces fishtailing. . Adding an upgraded anti-roll bar, more commonly known as a sway bar, may also help.

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